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Rock climbing at Devils Tower is a popular recreational sport. The tower is acclaimed as one of the premier crack climbing areas in North America and boasts a colorful 100-year climbing history. With this popularity, regulations are essential in order to protect climbers, the general public, and the Tower itself. We ask all climbers to act responsibly and observe park regulations.

The final climbing management plan for Devils Tower National Monument was released in March 1995 and currently guides climbing management. For the first time, Devils Tower National Monument will manage the Tower as a cultural resource as well as a natural and recreational resource. Management of recreational climbing will be approached from this broader perspective. The plan stipulates that there will be no new physical impacts to the rock. Out of respect to American Indian beliefs, a key element of the plan is a voluntary closure to climbing during the month of June. (See March 2000 Climbing Management Plan Press Release)

Regulations

• Register before your climb and check in immediately upon your return.

• Observe any route closures posted on bulletin boards and on the Tower Trail. Some routes are closed from mid-March to mid-summer to protect nesting Prairie Falcons. Contact the monument for specific closure areas.

• Camp only in the designated campground. Camping is not permitted on the Tower.

• Leave pets where they are comfortable and safe. Do not leave pets unattended. Pets are not allowed on trails or away from parking lots, the campground, or the picnic area. All pets must be leashed or confined in a vehicle.

• Pull your ropes when you are finished climbing for the day. Leaving unattended ropes on the Tower is not permitted. Please do not leave webbing on the Tower.

• Leave the rock as you found it. Chipping holds, gluing holds, gardening, and excessive route cleaning are prohibited.

• A permit is required to replace existing bolts or fixed pitons. Do not install new bolts or fixed pitons.

• Power drills are prohibited at Devils Tower National Monument. A permit is required to use manual drills.

Registration
All persons planning to climb or scramble above the boulder field are required to register at the Visitor Center April through October or at the Administration Building during winter months. Climbers are required to check in at the end of their climb. During off hours, a registration board with blank registration cards and check-in sheets is posted on the outside of the Visitor Center or Administration Building door. During peak visitation - May through September - climbers are asked to leave their vehicles in the lower parking lot, located immediately to the right as you enter the main visitor center parking lot.

Climbing Guides
Several climbing guide companies hold commercial use permits for Devils Tower. Check with Devils Tower for a current list of guides with permits. When using a commercial guide service make certain that the guide has a valid permit.

Establishing New Routes
Climbers completing new routes are asked to describe them on forms available at the Visitor Center. New route descriptions are made available to all interested climbers. Please remember that the installation of new bolts and fixed pitons is not permitted.

A Word of Caution
Rescue: The National Park Service does not maintain a rescue team at Devils Tower. Make plans for self-rescue or assistance from other climbers should an unexpected incident arise. Available park staff will provide assistance to the limit of their abilities. Response to an incident may take several hours.

Injury: The closest medical facility which can treat significant trauma is 60 miles from Devils Tower. Caution should dictate your actions while climbing!

Weather: Storms can develop quickly, creating danger from lightning, slippery rock surfaces, and hypothermia. Obtain forecast information before beginning your climb and observe changing weather conditions. Dehydration is common during hot, dry weather. Always carry plenty of water.

Rappelling: Accidents often occur when rappelling if proper care is not taken. The National Park Service does not maintain bolts. Inspect all anchors and back them up if you feel they are inadequate. Make sure that you know where your rappel route is before you begin. Always rappel over the nose of a column and take extreme care to prevent ropes from jamming in cracks when pulled. Avoid knocking off loose rock.

Other Hazards: Climbing helmets are strongly recommended due to frequent rock falls. Significant hazards should be reported to a ranger so that future climbers can be warned of the situation. Watch for snakes, spiny plants, poison ivy, falcon attacks, wasps, and falling rocks while climbing on the Tower.

Planning
Some routes are closed to protect nesting Prairie Falcons from mid-March to mid-summer. Please check for route closures when you register to climb.

A key element of climbing management at Devils Tower is a voluntary closure to climbing during the month of June. The National Park Service asks climbers to consider the voluntary closure in planning a climbing trip to Devils Tower.