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Bessemer Bend
Explorers, fur traders, mountain men and emigrants have camped at this site. Although the main route of the Oregon Trail is a few miles north of here, many emigrant travelers crossed the North Platte River at this site for the last time on their trek west. They preferred using this favorable ford rather than waiting in line and paying the tolls and ferry fees required at lower crossings. Ample grass, good water and pleasant surroundings made this a favorite campsite for some travelers, since the route to or from the Sweetwater River was three days of rough, dry country and poisonous alkali water.
Bessemer City, (“Queen of the Plains”), flourished for a short time (1888-1891) a few miles west of the river. Bessemer City was founded by cattle kings anticipating the construction of a railroad This area was the hub of well-established stock-grazing ranches on major streams and rivers. The residents of Bessemer City staged a campaign for the Natrona County seat and in April of 1890 lost their bid to Casper, another nearby village. Bessemer City died and is now a field of waving alfalfa where once stood hotels, stores, churches and saloons.
Pony ExpressApril 4, 1860-October 24, 1861
Historic sites have been interpreted along the Pony Express Trail by the Bureau of Land Management in Wyoming, Utah and Nevada. This effort to enhance your understanding of our western heritage is in observance of the American Revolution Bicentennial. “Bessemer Bend” is one of three Bureau of Land Management sites in Wyoming. You are invited westward to the Sweetwater River to visit ”Devil’s Gate” near Independence Rock via Wyoming 220 and “Split Rock” via Wyoming 287. If you are the adventurous sort, trace the original path of the Pony Express or the Oregon Trail following the route of westward Expansion.
The Need was There
Competing with time, harsh climates, long distances, mountains, plains, deserts and the hostility of numerous Indian Bands, the Pony Express met the need to carry communication 1600 miles across the West. It was a triumph of organization, determination and courage and was vital to the life of the Nation. The Pony Express kept the far West informed and helped to keep Califonia in the Union at the outbreak of the Civil War, thus playing a part in holding the Nation together. During its eighteen-month life, the Pony Express operated at peak efficiency, speeding mail from either end at an average rate of only 10 days. The time was shorter for telegrams as the “talking wire” neared completion from east and west. From April 4, 1860 to October 24, 1861, the California Overland Mail and Pike’s Peak Express (Pony Express) was the Nation’s vital communication link with the far West.
How It Was Done
Relay stations were set up 10 to 15 miles apart along the route, each manned by two to four men and extra horses. In the desert west, relay stations were often much farther apart. About 500 of the hardiest western horses were bought at prices up to $200 each. Above all, the 80 riders were recruited from the most daring, determined and toughest “wiry young fellows” in the West. Lightly equipped and armed, each rider rode about 35 miles and back, exchanging horses at three relay stations. Over his saddle the rider carried the mochila, a leather cover with four mail pouches. Postage for a single letter was $1 to $5. Each rider rode at top speed to his relay stations. There the precious mochila was placed on a waiting horse and the rider was off again in two minutes. Day and night, good weather and bad, winter and summer, the “Pony” never stopped, averaging 10 to 15 miles an hour across the West.
The Pony’s Echo
Completion of the Transcontinental Telegraph Line, October 24, 1861, put an end to the Pony Express. The wire now met the need for urgent communication. The Overland Mail Stage Coach service for letters had been intensified so that the high cost of Pony Express mail was no longer justified. In 18 months the story of the Pony Express had attracted world-wide attention that has not faded with time. Its backers, Russell, Majors, Waddell and Company, lost over $1million on the venture and never received federal support. Never the less, the Pony Express will remain as an outstanding example of American enterprise, endurance, courage and determination in the westward expansion of the Nation.
Goose Egg Ranch
The Goose Egg Ranch was established in this area of Wyoming by the Searight Cattle Company of Texas, which stocked it with 14,000 head of cattle trailed in from Oregon. Inspiration for the name of the ranch came when one of the cowboys found some goose eggs on an island in the North Platte River.
The ranch house, built in the fall of 1881, was a large native stone building with a living room, kitchen, five bedrooms and a cellar. Although most materials were freighted by wagon teams from Cheyenne, the stone was cut from nearby rocks.
Famous for its local dances and parties, the house was picked by Owen Wister as the setting for an incident in his western novel, “The Virginian”. In this famous story the Virginian switched babies in clothing and cribs while their parents danced at the party. This prank was his reaction to being snubbed by the teacher, Molly Wood, after he rode 100 miles to attend the party.
The ranch house was one-quarter mile east of flourishing Bessemer City. It was once used as a hotel, advertised as “the best hotel in central Wyoming with accommodations unsurpassed”.
When the Goose Egg Ranch was sold in 1886, it became part of J.M. Carey’s spread. Carey and his son, Robert, both were Governor and Senator for Wyoming in the early 1900s. The house was razed in 1951 because it was felt to be a hazard.
Pony Express
Red Buttes Pony Express Station was located a few hundred feet from here on the ridge above the river. The station was constructed for the Overland Stage and shared by the Pony Express. It was also along this north bank of the river that the first transcontinental telegraph line was built.
William “Buffalo Bill” Cody, Pony Express rider, made the longest non-stop ride from this station. Completing his own run of 116 miles between Red Buttes and Three Crossings, he found his relief rider had met an untimely death, causing Cody to ride an extra 76 miles to Rocky Ridge Station. He immediately returned from Rocky Ridge to Red Buttes, completing the route in record time.
The Astorians
John Jacob Astor’s “Astorians” are often given credit for finding the “South Pass” route to Oregon territory, later crossed by thousands on the Oregon Trail. Astor sent his “Astorians” by sea and land in 1810 to establish the Pacific Fur Company at the mouth of the Columbia River. Astor’s dream was to establish a Pacific base for his fur trading business that would become a cornerstone for a great new American state. He intended to break the British fur monopoly in the Pacific Northwest and bring American territory under American control.
Wilson Price Hunt with his party of “Astorians” traveled west, crossing northern Wyoming in July of 1811. Robert Stuart, a partner in the company, traveled with others by sea. Stuart later returned to New York with dispatches for Astor. It was this journey which pioneered the route over South Pass, in October of 1812.
The Platte River, being a natural travel route across Wyoming and Nebraska, was first encountered by Stuart above Bessemer Bend. Stuart’s party camped near here across the river, from November 1 to November 13, 1812, planning to winter in a crude cabin they built. Fearing Indian attack, the party abandoned the cabin and proceeded down the river.
Stuart’s Diary Describes How He Found This Place
“…we reached a considerable mountain through which the River ran 4 miles, when the Country opening, it made a large bend to the north (Bessemer Bend), to the lower end of which we went in 2 more and encamped in a beautiful bottom of Cottonwoods surrounded with a thick growth of the common WillowOur days journey was 24 miles NE.”
Many explorers, mountain men and travelers stopped here, at what they referred to as “Red Buttes”. Among them were Andrew Sublette, July 30, 1834, “bound for Laramy”s Fork”, John Charles Fremont in 1842, and Howard Stansbury, July 27, 1852.
The Oregon Trail & California Trails
The Oregon Trail was the major corridor of westward migrationthe main street of the West from the 1830s to 1869 when the transcontinental railroad was completed. Restless Americans from all walks of life moved west along this corridor seeking a better life in a new land. The Mormons sought freedom from religious, social and economic intolerance and aggression. For others, the lure was land available for the taking. After the discovery of gold in California in 1848, bands of feverish fortune seekers sought the buried wealth of the West. An estimated 350,000 people passed this way between 1841 and 1866 on their way to western territories. For these thousands of men, women and children, the journey was 2,000 miles of plains, deserts and mountains-one step at a time. Their visions of personal freedom and opportunity were vital to national expansion.
The long journey to Oregon took emigrants about six months, moving 10 to 20 miles a day with their wagons, carts and packs. Time, distance and hardships seasoned the travelers much as soldiers are seasoned by a long war. Those who crossed the North Platte River at this point had already traveled nearly 775 miles, most of it near the Platte River. Howard Stansbury passed through here in July 1852 and noted the difficulties encountered by those who had passed ahead of him. He witnessed eleven broken wagons and much discarded equipment, such as blacksmith’s anvils, trunks, ploughs, ovens and grindstones.
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